ka24de idle issue

[thebrave]

Is there anyone here that have done a ka24de swap
I have gone threw 3 maf two intake manifold and I still cannot get this car to idle at all. need some hel guys

[Terry]

Check your TPS

[Euronymous 240]

is it a fresh swap? details help.

[xXxJohnnyxXx]

check your vaccum comming from the intake (the intake with the maf) to the iacv, then check the vaccums near your idacv

[thebrave]

I did the swap 4 months , and all it would do is crank and continue to run by me pressing on the gas on and off. If i keep my foot on the gas it would only shut off.
the things that I have came up with is that its either I am not getting enough gas, no vac, or my ecu and maf are messed up. I will leave the maf out b/c I have tried 3 different ones.....

[ColtonRay]

1) Check your AICV " Air Idle Control Valve" carbon gets build up inside of it, causing it to stick and make your car idle jump... take it off, clean it with some q-tips and spray some throttle body cleaner in there... make sure it nice and clean.
2) take your air intake off where you can see and flap open your throttle body, clean it with a rag with some throttle body cleaner...
3) on another note, heck even take off your MAF and clean it with some 70% rubbing alcohol, with some q-tips and cotton balls, just be very careful around the sensor part... let it sit for about 45mins to dry off completely... put everything on and then see how your car idles...

[ummyeah]

your timing definitely might be a tooth off.

[thebrave]

@ ummyeah I reset the timming a couple of months ago, it drives you just have to keep feathering the gas. like as if I have to force air and gas.
I really need to find someone that has the swap I have and copy what valves they have blocked off, and try another ecu

[enerj]

When I swapped in a KA24DE it would barely start and then if I didn't blip the gas a ton it would just die. Was not driveable. Turned out to be a bad fuel injector. My testing procedure was to read the codes, fix those, then check for spark and the injectors.

The only code was IACV, turned out to be a fuse, but this was after I took it off and cleaned it completely, doesn't hurt.

Spark was tested with a simple spark tester and observing a strong spark at each plug.

Fuel was tested for by removing the rail and putting a clear tube with a stop at one end on the injector and cranking the engine while only this injector was plugged in. If you have a friend to measure cranking time while you hold the condom on the injector/rail, you can perform a decent flow test.

I also installed a grounding cable from the battery ground over the the head. Not sure if it helped, but it sure didn't hurt.

I wrote about all the stuff here, but if you're 100% confident these things are sound then there's no need to read my babble. Of course your compression needs to be good too. trouble codes, compression fuel and spark is where I start all diagnosing.