Thread: The CA18 Thread

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  1. #11  
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    well fuck


    BN Sports | Varrstoen | Competition Clutch | DMax | Kaaz | ISIS

    Iron Block LSX | SWD Formula D Pro-Am
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  2. #12  
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    exactly.

    I would have gone KA-T but found a decent deal on a CA, and after inspection turned out to be good. And i thought my KA was on its last leg... SO i got a CA, turned out good.

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  3. #13  
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    I'm working on pulling together info on the Euro-spec CA18's. They were in production through 1994 over in Europe, in addition to having a completely different head and intake manifold.

    Intake side was 4 runner/4 port, like the SR20. It does not have the butterfly valves like the 4 runner/8 port head like the J-spec CA18's. Most of the internet forum warriors will tell you that the J-spec head makes better torque down low, but everytime I've made inquiries about dyno charts, nobody can produce one.

    However, the most powerful CA18's are in Europe, i.e; Mobne Tuning and Norris Designs, and I'm sure there are a few others floating around.

    The easiest way to visually tell the difference between a J-spec and E-spec head/intake is by checking the fuel rail and runners. On the J-spec manifold, the fuel injectors are staggered (#1 injector is pointed into #1 valve, #2 inj. is pointed into #4 valve, #3 inj. - #5 valve, #4 inj. - #8 valve.), and the E-Spec injectors are dead center of every runner.

    Also, the J-spec intake runners are divided into two pieces and the spring assembly for the valves are in-between both runners. The E-spec runner is one solid piece.

    Bottom line aboout CA18's - If you go through a reputable vendor such as RIP Garage, then you shouldn't have too many issues, if any at all. My motor that I got from them was perfect. I haven't replaced a single thing on it, and the only thing I did to it was install my tubular manifold and clutch. I didn't replace any seals, gaskets, or rubber hosing. Reason being? The motor was in fantastic shape, and it had the stamp on the belt cover from when it had a timing belt package done.

    However, the motor I got from Nagasaki-JDM motors was a total piece of garbage. All the hoses were dry rotted, valve cover gaskets were as hard as plastic, it leaked like a sieve.

    JJ, the CA is relatively easy and cheap to work on. The local parts stores has my camshaft and front crank seals in stock, as well as spark plugs, and they've even had the exhaust gaskets in stock before. This goes back to cross-referencing against an '88 Pulsar. I've bought quite a few things for this motor from both the parts store and dealership, and I think the longest that anything took to arrive was the OEM coilpacks from Nissan, and that was only about 3 days.

    Getting parts for this motor is not as hard as everyone makes it out to be, and there is plenty of aftermarket support.
    Last edited by PBarkley; 03-02-2009 at 11:02 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    - Peter -- 66 Le Mans - 89 240SX - 14 Juke Nismo RS --

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  4. #14  
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    Did someone clean this thread up a little?
    - Peter -- 66 Le Mans - 89 240SX - 14 Juke Nismo RS --

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  5. #15  
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    yes im keeping this thread clean of debate.


    this is for info and questions only
    Last edited by SCato; 03-03-2009 at 04:22 AM.

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  6. #16  
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    From what I remember wiring didn't seem to difficult, either.
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  7. #17  
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    almost exact same as SR wiring

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  8. #18  
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    Good info guys. I love this motor.
    Quote Originally Posted by jtbmwi View Post
    u still sellin the item

    greddy turbo
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  9. #19  
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    Heres a great thread on VAC line routing:

    http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=291311
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  10. #20  
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    one of the few good threads on nico

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