Thread: The CA18 Thread

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  1. #1 The CA18 Thread 
    Join Date
    May 2007
    There were 2 versions of the CA18DET available, yet only one was produced for Japan. The Australian and Asian CA18DETs received 8 port (low port) heads, with butterfly actuated auxiliary ports in the lower intake manifold which corresponded with 8 ports in the head. Below ~3800 rpms, only one set (4 ports open, 1 per cylinder) of long, narrow ports would be open, accelerating the intake charge to the cylinder. This allowed for quick spool and good low end tractibility. At the 3800 rpm change over, not only would the ECCS shift into batch fire (as opposed to sequential) fuel injection, but it also opened the second set of short, wide ports (8 ports open, 2 per cylinder) which assisted in high RPM flow. This motor is known for stronger torque characteristics, as well as faster spool at lower RPMs. However, due to displacement-based taxation and cost of emissions testing in Europe, the CA18DET was sold as an optional engine in the S13 chassis 200SX (Euro model) until replaced by the S14 in 1994. The Euro motors received the 4 port (high port) head and intake manifold, as well as revised ECCS ("Electronic Concentrated Control System") parameters. Power was not increased, but high RPM flow was indeed improved, making the 4 port CA18DET the most desirable of the late generation Nissan turbo 4s. Due to superior head design (cam on bucket, as opposed to the complex and heavy rocker arm actuation of later motors like the SR and QR series), many enthusists consider the CA18DET to be the best engine platform since the FJ20ET that powered the legendary DR30 Skyline DOHC-RS.

    -83mm bore
    -83.6mm stroke
    -Cast iron, semi-closed deck head; shallow skirt for light weight
    -Under piston oil squirters
    -Aluminum head (twin cam 16v)
    -Garrett T25 .64a/r, oil and water cooled
    -Intake cam: 242***8218;° - 7.8mm valve lift
    -Exhaust cam: 248***8218;° - 8.5mm valve lift
    -"Cam on bucket" hydraulic lifter valve acutation
    -Cast iron crank girdle connecting main caps
    -8.5:1 compression ratio (DET), 9.5:1 (DE)
    -Cast aluminum pistons, factory shot-peened cast iron rods
    -4 counter weight crank shaft
    -Wide angle, pent roof combustion chamber
    -175ps@6400RPM, 166ft/lb@4000RPM

    Swap Tips
    The stock CA is a very finicky beast due in no small part to the overly sensitive ECCS ECU. Be prepared to battle the ECU all throughout your CA experience. Many upgrade to a stand alone system before attempting even BPU+ levels of modification. Cold start issues abound. Here are some threads on NICO that address this:

    Another issue is with the knock sensor. The knock sensor is part of the lower harness, so you need to make sure that it is wired into the ECU. Myself, I directly wired it into the ECU with my own wires. If you have questions on this, email me.

    CAs (like their RB big brothers) are hard on head gaskets. This is due to the fact that the materials of the head and block are different and expand at differing rates. A single overheat can warp the head. Be prepared to upgrade the headgasket to a MLS if you want more than 275hp/20psi. You can use a Felpro (part number 9563PT) one readily found at any parts dealer. The part number for a standard bore CA Cometic head gasket is H2207051S. You cannot install one of these without honing BOTH the block and head. I tried with just the head, and it was no good. Felpro is working wonderfully for me.

    Standard ECU has boost cut at 14psi. Speed cut is 150. Max MAF voltage is 5v.

    Air regulator (IACV) is the same as the B-13 Sentra SE-R.

    Timing: There is a loop on the rear of the coil harness that the FSM lists as the timimng check loop. The FSM would have you use this for the inductive pickup, but it is not accurate! I have heard of being off by 10* or more due to using this method. Instead, pull the #1 coil and run a spark plug wire from the coil to the plug, and use this for your inductive pickup. Stock timing is 15* BTDC, and 17-18* can be run with little worry on the stock ECU and fueling (I run 17* BTDC). There are 6 marks on the crank pulley, and the marks are clockwise as follows:
    -5*, 0*, 5*, 10*, 15*, and 20*

    ECU Diagnostics (aka "Little Blinking Lights on the ECU")
    There are 5 different modes that output, via the red and green LEDs, different states of the ECU/motor. To enter each display mode, simply turn the screw in the direction of the arrow. The LEDs will flash in unison to display the mode (2 flases is mode 2, three is mode three, etc) When the LEDs flash, immediatly turn the screw all the way back to the opposite direction, and the ECU will be in the mode displayed. Following are explinations of each mode.

    -Mode 1 is Feedback Control Monitor A, with the green LED displaying what mode (open or closed loop) ECU is working. In open loop, the green LED will be on when the ECU sees a lean condition, off when it is rich. In closed loop, it will be on solid, or off solid. The FSM does not explain what each means.

    -Mode 2 is Feedback Control Monitor B, and will display how accurate the ECU is metering the fuel in open loop. The red LED will flash with the green LED when the desired AFR is met or not (red and green flashing in unison means the fuel is metered properly, only green flashing Mode II in open loop means the O2 sensor is reading that the mixture is not appropriate)

    -Mode 3 is Self Diagnostic Mode, with the red LED displaying values of 10 and green displaying single value (3 red and 4 green flashes is a code 34 or a knock sensor if IIRC). This mode is how you check input circuits for trouble (like a bad MAF or temperature sensor)

    -Mode 4 is for other circuits like throttle position sensor and idle switch operation. When the LEDs are on, the switches are operating properly.

    -Mode 5 is real time trouble display. With this mode, if you watch the ECU, the LEDs will flash the same sequence as in Mode 3, but in real time, showing at you when exactly the error code is occuring (so that you can see exactly when, say the knock sensor is freaking out, so you can troubleshoot knock at an observed RPM)

    All of this is covered on page EF&EC 64 in the FSM.

    Idle speed is set via the adjustment screw on the back (facing the firewall) of the AAV. Warm the car to NOT, remove the plug on the AAV, and adjust the screw until idle is at 800RPM.

    ECU Pinout:
    This is from the harness side, meaning when you are looking at the harness plug, not the ECU. This will aid is modifying the harness for your needs. Just a few tips:
    -I ditched the check connectors with no problems
    -The knock sensor leaves the main engine loom and enters the lower harness. This makes the harness a little more complex than necessary. I reccomend moving the knock sensor wiring back into the main harness. I have mine bundle in with the upper connectors, then travel under the intake manifold to the knock sensor.
    -If you do not have A/C, the FCID solenoid wiring can be removed

    I have had great success running 15W-50 Mobil1 full synthetic since day 1. Colder regions would do well to run 10W-30 or 10W-40 (if you can find it). The stock filter is a Fram 3682 or 3614 equivalent. I reccomend not running a Fram filter, even though I am a huge Honeywell fan.

    1G DSM dropping resistor is a direct replacement for CA unit. Wire as follows:

    Make sure your motorset comes with:
    -MAF (or use KA-E one)
    -Injector resistor (also called dropping resistor. Or use DSM one)
    -Power transistor (also called ignitor. VH, SR, VG also work)

    Easy Mods
    KA24E throttle body is a direct bolt on, but you must flip it upside down and cut off the coolant ports on the bottom. Stock tb is 53mm, KA is 60mm.

    KA24E MAF is a 5mm upgrade. Easliy found for less than $50. Wiring is as follows:
    KA24E --> CA18DET
    black --> black
    black/white --> black/white
    White --> Green/black
    ***Green/yellow don't connect

    EDIT: It has been discovered that the voltage to airflow value is not the same for the KA24E and CA18DET MAFs. Bio has added a proper .bin file to his ROM thread. To get maximum performance and reliability out of this MAF, you must reflash your EPROM!

    SR20DET O2 housing will bolt right up, but only with a SR downpipe. If you use one, you must use the other.

    S14 SR20DET FMIC kits are direct bolt on. FYI: SR20DET hotpipe kits will not work without modification with standard SMIC and coldpipe.

    SR T25G .80a/r is a direct bolt on affair, but you must clock the compressor housing a few degrees for it to fit. It is good for 250hp on standard fuel system. Also, SR G/T28/R will bolt onto the stock manifold, however the standard T28 inlet and outlets will not work with standard intake and hotpipe. Be prepared to cut and reweld the parts.

    The stock injectors are low impedence, peak and hold 370cc injectors. They can safely support 10-14psi with a T25, but any more and you will hit fuel cut. *Edit: I have finally explored fuel cut. I hit it at ~16-18psi with my KA24E MAF.

    DSM injectors are nearly direct drop in. The fuel rail bosses are about 1mm too small. Have a machine shop open them up for you. They are 450cc, low impedence, peak and hold. Can support 300+hp with proper tuning. Also, 2nd generation, series 4 (1988-89) RX-7 N/A injectors are 460cc and will work. The Turbo (TII) motor will get you 550cc injectors. Just use CA o-rings.

    Upgrade your fuel pump when you swap. Also, the stock FPR will be very angry with the upgraded pump, so consider a Nismo FPR or otherwise as a stage one modification. Before I modified to a Nismo unit, my idle was terrible and the car ran much better after the new FPR. I run a Nismo unit for an SR, and all you need is a little extra fuel line, as the outlet for the SR FPR will be pointing away from the hard line on the manifold (this will make sense when you go to install it). Nismo units have been known to leak, so I have seen Nismo FPRs with RTV on the seam between the upper and lower body of the unit.

    Cams: The standard cams run out around 6500RPM, so even though the motor will do 8K+ standard (not advised though), there is little point. Anything more than 9mm of lift will require a change to solid lifters and proper shims, as you will collapse the standard hydraulic lifters. 10mm lift (JUN, Tomei step 2 and 3 Procams, etc) will require substantial modification to the head as well for clearance. There is some debate on using a CA16DE intake cam, however, the last information I saw required a Euro spec CA16DE intake cam be used for any benefit, and it was small for the amount of searching one must do. Tomei Poncams can be readily found at many suppliers ( can get them for you) One can also use two exhaust cams, as they have greater lift. I have not attempted this yet, but plan to when one comes availible.

    There is no BOV as standard, and it is not necessary unless you surpass 8psi. There is no port on a standard CA turbo intake tube for recirculation, and considering that the ECU uses a MAF, it is HIGHLY reccomended to find a way to recirculate. I previously used a modified (shortened) SR20DET intake tube with BOV port. Even properly adjusted, the CA will have issues with a vented BOV.

    Clutch: Contact SPEC if you just need something to get you down the road, but I have heard a lot of drama on their clutches on the CA. Lots of sheared rivets and dead friction surfaces. Exedy makes clutches for the CA (part N110012), but you will need to call their USA office to find one apparently. By far, the easiest option is to remove the clutch alignment pins on the stock flywheel and bolt up any KA24DE clutch. Jim Wolf Technologies also has some options so you can contact them (one of their techs has a sweet CA). As for the flywheel, the SR20DET is the only standard flywheel that you can use. You will need to also use a SR clutch, grind down a few spots on the bellhousing that interfere with the larger flywheel, and you will need to source the starter from a 1986 Nissan 200SX CA18ET.

    99% of the time, getting the part for the 1988 Pulsar NX SE 1.8l will get you the right part. Here is a complete listing:

    Injection manual:

    Last edited by SCato; 03-03-2009 at 02:53 AM.

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  2. #2  
    Join Date
    May 2007
    i guess this is just for me, AfSil80, SLO, and PLV..... and DoctorSars!!!

    Basic Info
    Displacement - 1809cc
    Bore - 83mm
    Stroke - 83.6mm
    Compression - 9.5:1(DE) 8.5:1(DET)
    Horsepower - 135 HP @6400RPM(DE) 175 HP @6400RPM(DET)
    Torque - 115 ft/lbs @5200(DE) 166 ft/lbs @4000(DET)

    Tune up stats

    Timing marks -The six marks on the crank pulley read clockwise are -5, 0, 5, 10, 15 and 20 degrees respectively.

    Timing - 15*BTDC(DE(T))

    Idle speed - This is set via a valve solenoid on the intake manifold. In the center of the plenum aiming to the front is a valve with a gold cylinder with a plug on it. Unplug it and adjust the idle speed with the 10mm bolt on the back of the valve then plug it back in.

    Idle speed - 800RPM(DE) 750RPM(DET)

    Spark Plug - NGK PFR6A-11 or equivalent Gap - 1.1 mm

    Fuel Injector - Top feed, 370cc

    Oil filter - Fram 3682, 3614 or equivalent (4qts with these)

    How to PROPERLY set the timing on the CA

    -warm car up to NOT
    -remove decorative coilpack cover
    -remove the plug going to the coilpack on the #1 cylnder
    -remove the 4 bolts holding the coilpack in place
    -remove the coil pack
    -get a spark plug wire
    -attach one end to the spark plug
    -remove the rubber boot on the coilpack
    -using electrical tape, attach the other end of the plug wire to the coilpack
    -plug the coilpack back in
    -set coilpack someplace that allows the body of the unit to be grounded
    -attach the inductive pick up to the plug wire
    -attach positive and negative power leads to the battery
    -start the car
    -point timing light at the crank pully
    -it should read at 15*BTDC
    -if timing is incorrect loosen the 3 bolts that secure the CAS and adjust left/right until the timing is at 15*BTDC
    -retighten the 3 bolts and recheck the timing
    -turn off the car
    -reinstall the coilpack, plug the coilpack in, and reinstall the decorative cover if desired
    -enjoy your newly timed car!

    *Important Facts*
    - you can use any low imp. top feed injectors (dsm 440's will drop right in with the lower CA o rings
    - stock bottom end has been proven to hold over 300hp with proper fuel management
    - these engines are a minimum of 15yrs old, so expect some parts to be in need or replacement
    - its not a bad idea to tear down the bottom end an inspect main and rod bearings
    - install is almost identical to the sr, same with mods to the wiring harness
    - head design is better than sr CA-8 port head /SR-4 port head
    - KA clutch will bolt right in, one of the pins on the flywheel just needs to be pulled off with vise grips
    - use ONLY the CA18ET water pump, the DE pump does not align correctly when the DET pully is used, unless you use the DE pump and the DE pully
    - iron block and all forged internals
    - lighter than the SR (44lbs)
    - any KA radiator works perfectly
    - s13 SR hot pipe will work for a fmic, but not smic
    - SR downpipe works fine with the sr o2 housing
    - SR t25's and t28's are both upgrades
    - nismo sr/ka mounts will work but engine sits about an inch higher (nismo does make CA specific mounts, havent found them in the states tho)
    - KA sohc maf works
    - ca18et and ca20e bellhousings will bolt onto your ka tranny with no alignment probs, and youll have a longer 5th gear
    - head bolts are a 10mm allen wrench
    - oil filter is same as 240sx unit
    - 3 wire universal o2 sensor works fine
    - stock flywheel is 26.8 pounds
    - flywheel bolts ARP #151-2801 (Ford Pinto 2000cc)

    here are the colors and orders for the injector wires

    Injector # 1 the closest to the Cas,

    Injector #2

    Injector #3

    Injector #4

    Taken from

    If you are looking for parts, tell the autoparts store that you have an 88' Nissan Pulsar NX SE. It will be the correct part 99% of the time!

    Oxygen Sensor CA18ET 200sx Bosch 13276 $47.99
    Spark Plugs CA18ET* 200sx NGK PFR6A-11 $Varies
    PCV Valve CA18DE Pulsar NX Bosch PCV142 $2.99
    Thermostat CA18DE Pulsar NX 491-180 $4.99
    Thermo Gasket CA18DE Pulsar NX Felpro 35228 $0.89
    Water Pump** CA18DE Pulsar NX B150-1350 $33.99
    Upper Rad. Hose KA24DE 240SX L-564 $7.99
    Lower Rad. Hose KA24DE 240SX M-563 $7.39
    Oil Filter CA18DE Pulsar NX Bosch 3400 $5.49
    Alt Belt 4pk855 $9.99
    PS Belt 4pk845 $8.99
    AC Belt 4pk840 $8.99

    * Exhaust side needed
    ** Includes Gasket

    Other Spark Plug Options:
    PFR6/BCPR6's for standard (gap of 1.1mm)

    PFR7/BCPR7's for lightly modded (gap of 0.8-10mm - see what works for you)

    BCR8's for high boost applications. (gap 0.6-0.8 dependant on boost level)

    Oil filter 15208-H8911 Ryco Z386 or Ryco Z145A
    Door bump rubbers 01658-J7000 (Skyline R31)
    Exhaust manifold gasket 14036-D4200 (EXA 1.8, S13 CA1 Four separate pieces
    Intake manifold gasket 14035-D5710 (CA18 all) Injector rail to cylinder head
    Intake manifold gasket 14035-D5711 (CA18 all) Injector rail to intake runner
    Intake manifold gasket 14035-53J10 (SR20 all)
    Turbo inlet flange gasket 14415-75F10 (200SX)
    or 14415-17M00 (S13 all) The Aust 200SX one fits.
    Turbo outlet flange gasket 14445-26E00 (S13 all)
    Engine front oil seal 13042-42L00 (CA18 all)
    Engine rear oil seal 12279-18V00 (CA18 all)
    Oil pan seal front 11121-01F10 (CA18 all)
    Oil pan seal rear 11121-01F15 (CA18 all)
    Head gasket 11044-51E00 (CA18 all)
    Head gasket 11044-50F00 (SR20) until 9/92
    Head gasket 11044-50F01 (SR20) from 9/92 till 7/93
    Head gasket 11044-50F10 (SR20) from7/93 onwards
    Engine gasket kit 10101-51E25 (CA18D) Engine rebuild gasket kits
    Engine gasket kit 10101-56E25 (CA18DET)
    Engine gasket kit 10101-50E25 (SR20DET)
    Engine gasket kit 10101-51E26 (SR20D)
    Flywheel Bolts 12315-55M00 $2.18
    Valve grind gasket kit 11042-51E25 (CA18 all)
    Valve grind gasket kit 11042-50F25 (SR20 all)
    Fan belt 11720-V7301 (CA18 all) L = 855mm
    Fan belt 11720-52F00 (SR20 all)
    Compressor belt 11920-V7301 (CA18 all) also suits power steering pump
    Compressor belt 11920-30R10 (SR20 all) also suits power steering pump
    Water pump 21010-V5528 (CA1 until 8/90
    Water pump 21010-V5529 (CA1 from 8/90
    Water pump 21010-52F00 (SR20 all)
    Thermostat 21200-V0201 (CA18 all) 82.0 C
    Thermostat 21200-V0206 (CA18 all) 88.0 C
    Thermostat 21200-53J00 (SR20 all)
    Radiator cap 21430-01F01
    Radiator hose - upper 21501-35F10 (CA18 all)
    Radiator hose - lower 21503-35F00 (CA18 all)
    Radiator hose - upper 21501-52F00 (SR20 all)
    Radiator hose - lower 21503-52F00 (SR20 all)
    Bonnet bump rubbers (large) 62840-D0100 (Skyline R31)
    Engine coolant 10120-89904 Castrol
    Dash switch back lights Nissan Aust, have similar types
    $11.00 each **** Smith P8130, with fiddling needed or 12v lamps WT2-12 from WES Components, good fit. 65c each
    Radius rods (Tension rods) 54468-35F20 (S13 all) includes bush Genuine Nissan imports (JSVA), Remanufactured with Urethane (Cars of Saigon ).
    Wheel nut 62840-21001 (R31 Skyline)
    Brake pads See service info page. Bendix and others.
    heater hose w/valve part 02-0036 or p/n ch1649 same as 1988/90 holden commodore 3.8ltr
    (needs to be cut slightly)

    Headlight globe Who cares Any brand. H4 60/55W 12V or H4 100/55W 12V the second one has 100Watt high beam.
    Rear Dampers
    ( shockers ) See Nissan Dealer or Nismo KONI. Part no. 80-401-081 sports kyb.
    Approx $315 a pair.
    Fuel filter 16400-F5100 (CA18 and SR20) RYCO Z202 or Z201
    Air Filter 16546-V0100 (same as R31 Skyline) K&N high flow reusable type P/N 33-2031-1
    Spark plugs 22401-58S16 (PFR6A11, CA1 Non resistor type NGK BCP6ES11 (11 = gap of 1.1mm)
    Spark plugs 22401-53J16 (PRF6B, SR20DET)
    Crank angle sensor 23731-85M10 (CA18 all)
    Crank angle sensor 23731-50F01 (SR20 all)
    Coolant temp sensor 25080-89903 (S13 all)
    Steering Rack Boot (LHS) 48203-10V25 (same as local 300ZX, mabey R32 also)
    Oil pressure sender unit 25210 89920 (generic nissan??)
    Oil pressure sender 25240-89920 (S13 all)
    Cam shaft timing belt 13028-51E25
    Cam belt idler bearing 30BD219DWAX
    Cam belt tenioner bearing. 35BD219DWAX
    Clutch Master Cylinder rebuild kit. PBR Aust. K8690 (contains pistons).
    K7689X (rubber components only).
    Clutch Slave Cylinder 3062069F03

    S13 Main Handbook (English) Nissan Publication SM9E-OS13G0 $230 tax ex.
    RS13 Service Manual, Main Issue (Japanese) Nissan A008009 $143 Tax Ex
    SR20DET S13 Engine supplement Nissan A008011 $187 Tax Ex
    SR20DET S13 Wiring supplement Nissan A108012

    crank sprocket - 13021-D4200 - $29.26
    woodruff key - 00926-51900 - $1.02
    crankshaft plate (behind sprocket) - 13022-42L00 - $1.78

    Turbo Manifold gaskets -> head:

    14036-D4201 (x2)
    14036-D4202 (x2)

    KA24 and CA18 use the same radiators (Unlike the SR) with both ports on the USDM passenger side seems to carry quite a few CA products, including SAMCO CA18DET upper and lower radiator hoses as well as turbo hoses.

    for the water pump, if you use a pulsar pump you need a FWD pulley. get a CA18ET (S12 200sx) if you want to use the stock pulley.

    99% of your wiring questions can be answered here:
    Wiring diagrams for an s13 SR swap are nearly identical to our CA swaps. Use them first, and if you still can***8217;t get it, start a thread asking EXACTLY what you need to know.
    The only main difference between the CA and SR swaps is that sometimes the wiring for the knock sensor isn't present, since on the CA it runs through the body harness and on the KA and SR it's in the engine harness.
    UPDATED FSM: bookmarks and fun stuff like that No missing pages either!
    For info about the Nissan ECCS system and how it works, please check out this link:
    How to use the KA24E/DE lower harness on CA18DET (for the s13):

    All the plugs will plug in just fine; none of them need to be extended. Just don***8217;t worry about the 4th and 5th gear sensors. You might have to rewire the reverse sensor plug, or swap the reverse sensor from your KA tranny to the CA tranny. You should also swap the JDM speed sensor for the USDM speed sensor if you are using a MPH cluster, or else your speedometer will read incorrectly. For the starter, the KA and CA have completely different positive terminals (the lowest one). What you can do is cut the plug off of the ka starter, and then plug it into its appropriate spot on the lower harness. Then you attach that to the CA starter plug using one of the crimp style connectors. For the knock sensor, just solder it onto the plug if you have it. If you don***8217;t have the plug, you could solder it right to the sensor. Then find pin 23 on your ECU, and splice your wire into that wire. Use shielded wire! You can take some from the KA harness.
    Last edited by SCato; 03-03-2009 at 02:54 AM.

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  3. #3  
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    I'll add a little bit more info in when I get done reading, haha.

    Food for thought: All Nissan dealerships are capable of getting you parts for a CA18DET. If a parts department worker says he can't, then he is lazy and full of shit. If that's the case, I'd adivse to cease doing business with that dealership.
    Last edited by PBarkley; 03-01-2009 at 04:31 PM.
    - Peter -- 66 Le Mans - 89 240SX - 14 Juke Nismo RS --

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  4. #4  
    scoob.'s Avatar
    scoob. is offline wagon stuntin' Go buy me some race gas!
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    your local rice
    i love the ca.
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  5. #5  
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    i want ca so bad
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  6. #6  
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    My friend Megan is 99% going to get one as well, she needs an easy swap to maintain and work on, and this seems to be pretty good, and cheap.

    Whats the whp a stock CA will put down?

    BN Sports | Varrstoen | Competition Clutch | DMax | Kaaz | ISIS

    Iron Block LSX | SWD Formula D Pro-Am
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  7. #7  
    Join Date
    May 2007
    about 175 completly stock

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  8. #8  
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    hmm, not bad

    BN Sports | Varrstoen | Competition Clutch | DMax | Kaaz | ISIS

    Iron Block LSX | SWD Formula D Pro-Am
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  9. #9  
    Join Date
    May 2007
    JJ honestly a CA is not gona be for her, This engine is over 20 years old. Forget mileage at that point. IF she wants a nice reliable s chassis go with a nice KA

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  10. #10  
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Yeah, seriously. If you are not already knee-deep in one just move on. I am completely and totally tired of the pissing and moaning about the damned things from people who don't have a clue about the realities of buying not just this engine but any used engine. The CA18 is one of the oldest of the JDMtyte engines and as such displays more wear that the others except perhaps a redtop RB20.

    Reality check boys and girls.

    Your motor was in fact pulled from a junkyard. I don't care what line of jedi mindtrick bull**** your vendor told you. Somebody in Japan pulled a Silvia or 180 off the top of a stack and yanked a motor from it that has likely not been started in a year at best and was likely open to the elements in some way, be it radiator pulled or a turbo snatched, something.

    Your motor is an oddball, a black sheep, nobody loves it but us, nobody supports it. When you drop one in your car you are signing on with the understanding that you will not be able to surf ZOMGITZJDM.COM for CA18 specific parts. You will spend many sleepless nights surfing E-gay and paying too much for iffy parts because you have no choice. You will occasionally find people here moving stuff but we are fully into anacronism with the CA and most people are finally clueing in that they need to horde, to stock up on parts if they expect to support the engine into the future. You will learn to adapt, to create or you will not survive. If you are just coming in, turn around and walk right back out, you don't have the game or the connections it would take to play catchup.

    Your motor is small. There, I said it, it ain't a sin but it is a reality. An engine is an air pump and while there is replacement for displacement that replacement comes at the price of more stress in the form of high boost pressures and RPMS. You bought a 1.8 liter, don't wonder why it has less torque than a 2.4 liter. If you need me to do your math for you, you are completely and truly screwed.

    The CA is capable if you are willing to admit you have to do it right if you expect it to live at high power figures. If you blow it because you ignored this fact and threw a tired original motor in your car and cranked the boost up, spiked the tach, and sent a rod through your block, don't come here to ***** about it. YOU SCREWED UP and the engine paid the price for your stupidity, I have no sympathy for you and you're a murderer as far as I am concerned. I could prove negligent homicide in any court in the land using evidence posted by you before the crime.

    Your motor is unnecessary. There is very few instances when the KA won't get it done. Save for those that are seriously trying to push the envelope the KA24 is totally adequate for the average guy with proper prep. Prep money you wasted on another engine simply because it came in a Japanese-spec car. You didn't pull it because it truly was not able to make power, you pulled it because it wasn't cool. I don't judge you for that but you should at least admit it to yourself because it's sad to watch.

    Your motor needs a rebuild.

    I'll say it again because it needs to be said loudly.


    89 was the last year the CA was under the hood of an S chassis, that is 20 friggin years of use, older than many of the buyers are. Even the most religiously maintained, one owner engine, "only driven to Sendai on sundays" is going to be loose and need a good overhaul. Your motor has been beat up, badly. I have lived in Japan for 15 years, I see how they drive and I see how they maintain their cars, they DON'T. Your engine has been bounced off the rev limiter sliding around corners for years until it lost compression or the owner threw it away to get an SR. Know that it has had infrequent oil chages and rusty water coursing through the jackets.

    It needs help, will you help it?

    Are you man enough to help it?AIDA gentlemen

    It takes brass balls to drive a CA

    Last edited by SCato; 03-03-2009 at 02:51 AM.

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