S14 5-Lug How To. –
Tools:
- Jack & Jackstands
- Hammers (be sure to have a small 5-lb hammer)
- Ball joint removal tools (you can rent these from any auto parts store)
- 14mm, 17mm, 19mm and 22mm sockets, 6-sided preferable, and deep-socket
- 10mm box wrench or brake line wrench (preferable)
- Breaker bar and regular socket wrench
- Lithium grease and WD40
- Large and small needle nose pliers.
- Cutting wheel or nibbler (required)
- an extra person(bleeding brakes)
Hardware:
- S14 Front spindles
- S14 front lower control arms with ball joints
- 5-lug sleeves OR you can drill out your coil-overs (not recommended).
- New outer steering tie rod ends (recommended, but not necessary)
- 5-lug brakes and wheels (you want this thing to roll right?)
- Steel braided brake lines (recommended, but not necessary)
- Cotter pins x4 (1/8***8221; x 1***8221; work fine)
- 2 more lug nuts (locking preferable)
To re-assemble just go in reverse of the steps to take it apart..(confusing right.. I know)
1) Begin by replacing the outer tie rod ends, as they are probably old and worn out.
2) Replace the ball joints from your s13 with the s14 ones (OR just use the s14 complete arm), being sure to install the supplied c-clips. These require a shop press and special drift, so unless you have your own shop it is just easier to take it to someone with the right tools.
3) Install the lower control arm and tension rod assembly. If you have aftermarket tension rods, now is the time to install them as it is much harder when everything is bolted together. Lightly grease the two large bolts before sliding them through the control arm bushing and tension rod bushing and torque them to approx 50 ft-lbs torque using two 17mm sockets.
4) Reattach and install the front sway bar. If you have an after market sway bar, now is the time to install it! There is one nut under the front lower control arm that clamps down on the end link bushing that requires a 14mm deep socket wrench to install. Install the two forward sway bar bushings with the same 14mm deep socket, torquing to around 40 ft-lbs.
5) Cut the dust shield off of the back of the s14 front spindle, as most after market brakes will hit it(R32 GTR and Z32 brake rotors being a definite hit). You can take the hub off by loosening the 28mm axle nut and prying the dust shield off as it has been pressed onto the spindle.
6) Install the front spindles on the lower control arms by setting the spindle on top of the ball joint until firmly seated, then screw on the ball joint nut hand tight to retain it. Lightly grease the ball joint taper before installing as well, to inhibit rust. Using the 22mm socket, torque the ball joint crown nut to approx. 75 ft-lbs or until the crown slots line up with the cotter pin hole. Install and bend the cotter pins correctly as shown.
7) Install the spindle onto the coil overs. You may need your assistant to lift the spindle as the whole assembly can get heavy. Take the original s13 coil over bolts, and lightly grease the seating surface. Slide the supplied 5 lug sleeves over the bolts and grease the exterior of them as well. Line up the spindle holes with the coil over, and slide them through. Using two 17mm sockets, torque them to about 50 ft-lbs.
Attach the steering tie rod end to the spindle, lightly greasing the tapered surface first. Tighten down the crown bolt with a 19mm socket to about 40 ft-lbs or until the cotter pin hole lines up with the crown bolt slots. Install and bend the cotter pin correctly as shown before.
9) Install the brake rotors and calipers. Be sure that the bleed nipple on the brake caliper is on the top side! I found it was easiest to slide the rotor onto the hub first about halfway, then slide the caliper over the rotor then slide the whole assembly back. There are two 17mm bolts that secure the caliper to the spindle that should be torqued to about 50 ft-lbs.
10) Install the brake lines. Re-use the small hard line that connects the caliper to the rubber line and orient so that the tire will not rub against the line when you put the wheels on. Also be sure to leave enough slack so that the brake line will not be stretched or pinched when the wheels are at full steering lock. Torque all the flare fittings to about 12-15 ft-lbs torque using a 10mm box wrench being VERY careful not to strip any fittings. Install the line to clip to the various fittings. I re-used the original clips as they fit better.
11) Making sure to keep your master brake cylinder reservoir full, bleed the brakes as shown below with your assistant. (detailed how to below when link is clicked)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_bleeding
12) Bolt on your wheels. Using a deep socket 19mm wrench, install lug nuts hand tight first, then torque them tight moving in a criss-cross pattern. Lower the car onto the ground and re-torque the lug nuts to approx. 100 ft-lbs in the same criss cross pattern.
13) Go get a front end alignment. Do not skip this step as a bad alignment will negate any benefit you will be getting from bigger brakes or larger tires!
14) I would suggest not coming to complete stops, if you do the brake pads may temporarily deposit some material on the rotor, causing judder later on. For the cool down part, just drive at average speeds without braking hard for a while. When you do stop and park, try not setting the e-brake as well.
1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5. After step 4 your new pads are ready for use, have fun and drive safe!
Total Costs:
- s14 Front spindles - $220.00
- s14 Front Lower ball joints (x2) - $62.86
- 5-lug Sleeves - $28.85
- Sportlines brake line kit - $119.00
- Ball joint pressing cost - $40.00
- New s13 tie rod end links - $58.42
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Total: $529.13 (could be quite alot less)
-Ryan
Special thanks to Rexbo of 240sxforums.com
