Rebuild Question

[Steven2]

Well...i'm getting ready to rebuild the bottom end of my sr.

Im going to replace the bearings and the oil pump

My noobish like questions is...is it possible to do this without pulling the motor?

I have my car jacked up pretty high so i don't want to go through the extra work if i dont have to



EDIT:HELP!!! BTW^^^THAT would have been impossible lol

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/7317/s7305849rq5.th.jpg (http://img232.imageshack.us/my.php?image=s7305849rq5.jpg)I broke this screw b/c my torque wrench f'd up and i tried to tighten it too much. Is it possible to just keep going? Or is this screw super important? help por favor

[suprabrit]

It would be pretty damn hard to get around the crossmember...

[Steven2]

yea im wondering if the bearing beam will clear the crossmember

it'd be a pain in the ass to be under there all that time anyways i guess ill just pull it

anyone got a engine hoist for sale...or know somewhere that rents em out?

[Wes]

yea im wondering if the bearing beam will clear the crossmember

it'd be a pain in the ass to be under there all that time anyways i guess ill just pull it

anyone got a engine hoist for sale...or know somewhere that rents em out?

You can pick them up at Harbor Frieght or that Atlanta Tool company place for about $150 or so. I think some Autozone's rent them out, but dont quote me.

[Steven2]

if autozone doesnt have em im gonna be pissed

NOT

[GriffinW]

Harbor freight hoists and stands FTW, so cheap.

[suprabrit]

Advance has them for about $40.

[Steven2]

$40 sounds good to me thanks

[suprabrit]

I'm sure we have them at napa too for around the same price, but not 100% sure.

[Steven2]

dont you work at napa? haha u know the price at advanced and not at napa lol hows that work

[suprabrit]

Cuz I was at Advance forever, I've only been at Napa for like 3-4 months lol.

[Steven2]

ohh that makes sense...whyd you leave advance for napa? advance seems like the better store

[suprabrit]

More money. And I'm making more @ Napa as a counterperson than at Advance as a manager...

[Steven2]

damn advance either pays their managers shit or napa is a just damn good place to have a job

[suprabrit]

Advance pays horribly...Napa is not that good though. In fact, parts is cool and all as far as being in something having to do with cars, but I'm extremely sick of dealing with dumb/cheap/lazy people, lol.

[Steven2]

unfortunately theres dumb, cheap, lazy people everywhere. you gotta find a job where you dont have to do customer service

[suprabrit]

Yeah good point, but people who are ignorant when it comes to cars aggravate me. Tell me why a 30-something-year-old man can't put in his own battery? or they complain when the iridium sparkplugs that come in their 2007 vehicle cost so much, so they say "Oh well, I don't need plugs"... Or they walk up/call me and say "hey, can I talk to someone who actually knows something about cars?"...that gets annoying. Of course, I always prove their assumptions wrong, but still, annoying.

[Steven2]

yea i bet being a woman in the auto parts business is not the easiest thing to do in the world
i cant believe theyre so blatant about it tho. i would think even assholes wanna try to hide their assholeness...guess not

[suprabrit]

Oh yeah, they don't care. They'll call and say "parts please?" Hell, I've heard "Can I talk to a man?"

Oh well. Most of the men I work/have worked with don't know shit about cars, and end up coming to me with the question anyways.

[Steven2]

well shit woman already have that special power over men...i bet you feel like god at ur job, aside from the dumbass customers

[PSINXS]

pull it and put it on an engine stand. it would be very hard and time consuming not to do it that way

[Steven2]

Alright...my sr is pulled and on an engine stand

I've taken the bearing beam off and the nuts that hold the main bearing caps

Problem is...i can't get the damn bearing caps off. There is a hole with thread to put a screw in and i've done that. I spent ten minutes shaking it and have barely broken it loose.

There has got to be another way! help pleeasssee

Edit: ok ive got three out of five...this shit is hard wow

[Casey]

Alright...my sr is pulled and on an engine stand

I've taken the bearing beam off and the nuts that hold the main bearing caps

Problem is...i can't get the damn bearing caps off. There is a hole with thread to put a screw in and i've done that. I spent ten minutes shaking it and have barely broken it loose.

There has got to be another way! help pleeasssee

Edit: ok ive got three out of five...this shit is hard wow

i really hope you know what youre doing ....
i dont know how to help you. but i know if youre cluless on a motor build. plz dont just rip it apart.. if you run into issues there are alot of people on here who can help you / who you can pay to do the labor....
people who you could probably pay to do it would be:

v-empire
hellfire

[hellfire]

Tip. Take two screwdrivers of equal length. Slide into the two holes for the Main Caps. Then grab both handles and rock back and forth. It will come out. :)

Tyler

[Steven2]

hey man thanks that helped so much

it was still hard haha but it was 10 times easier then just doin it with a screw and pliers

there was actually arp bolts holding the caps and bearing beam, so i had to get a hex to remove them to do the screwdriver trick.

what was weird was that the size of them are 3/16 and dont match any metric sizes?
strange as hell but oh well at least i got those caps off

any tips on taking the connecting rod caps off ? lol

[hellfire]

Rotate crank so you can get to #1 and #4. If they are stock rods, then just take off the nuts to #1 and #4 and then hit the stud with a wooden dowel. The piston will move down and the Rod Cap will come loose. Repeat for #2 and #3.

Tyler

[Steven2]

thanks tyler i really do appreciate it

[hellfire]

No problem.

Tyler

[Lone_Wolf]

http://store.driftingshop.com/srmobudvdo15.html

[Steven2]

^Just ordered that DVD

Thanks Dugan

[Lone_Wolf]

no prob bob. I'd like to know what you think of it. write up a review for us. haha

[Steven2]

us? did u make or help make it?

ohhh u mean write a review for 240 atlanta...that went right over my head hehe


The video is awesome....ive learned sooo much.

i dont want to write a review b/c i don really have anything to compare it to since this is my first real learning experience with a build.

He's very precise and he definitely knows what he's doing. I would recommend this to anyone who is a novice on engine builds looking to build a sr20.

[Steven2]

can someone help me out by telling me a good machine shop that knows sr motors?

[Steven2]

EDIT: Help!http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/7317/s7305849rq5.th.jpg (http://img232.imageshack.us/my.php?image=s7305849rq5.jpg)I broke this screw b/c my torque wrench f'd up and i tried to tighten it too much. Is it possible to just keep going? Or is this screw super important? help por favor

[Zippy69]

What was the screw in? Is broken off inside something? If so you need to center drill it and use a set of screw extractors to get it out.

[hellfire]

Oh jeez. LoL..

Honestly, I don't think that screw is ULTRA important. I would just keep putting it together, and see if your compression is alright. That screw basically just tightens down the front so oil doesn't leak out. The headstuds are what hold the head to the block firmly. A little 10mm bolt isn't going to affect much.

Tyler

[icantdrift]

EDIT: Help!http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/7317/s7305849rq5.th.jpg (http://img232.imageshack.us/my.php?image=s7305849rq5.jpg)I broke this screw b/c my torque wrench f'd up and i tried to tighten it too much. Is it possible to just keep going? Or is this screw super important? help por favor


it'll likely cause a nasty oil leak. doesn't seem like it would do much, but from experience after stripping the same bolt while installing it will not make you happy when the thing runs. fix it now before it's all together or you'll be screaming obscenities when you're puking oil down the front cover.

[Steven2]

lol ... to avoid having to scream obscenities b/c i messed something up, i decided to just get another screw. I was able to get the other half out with pliers and i found an identical sized screw at the local Ace.

Now i fucking ran into a worse problem. The machine shop i went to assembled my block for me. Problem is, they didnt put in the oil jets. I was able to get three of them in. On the last one... i stripped it.

I guess ill have to do a helicoil from some research ive done. I have never done it b4 though and i dont want to jack it up. Im also worried that shards of metal will go into those oil passages.

Any advice? Maybe someone can come out and do it for me for $ of course?

so close to gettin my 1st sr running and shit keeps goin wrong. Im so sick of my automatic KA someone help me!

[hellfire]

Shitty machine shop. But..

Just drill the hole for the Helicoil with the motor on the stand, and oil pan facing down. Metal will fall down, not up, so don't worry about it. Then just make sure you clean that area very well.

Tyler

[Steven2]

ya I dont know why they just didnt ask me to bring in the oil jets. its a damn near impossible angle to put them in with the crank in.

Where could I pick up a helicoil kit locally?

[Bubbleguinea]

any car parts stores or any hardware store...

make sure you get a metric kit, and the right thread pitch... 1.5 or 1.25...

bring the bolt with you!

[hellfire]

Napa, Autozone, Advance, etc. They should all have, or be able to order the kits in whichever size you need. If you end up needing 3/8's, I have one sitting around. You can borrow it, if you pick up some extra coils. :)

Tyler

[Steven2]

hey...its been a while since ive been on here. Ive got the motor in and the drivetrain bolted up. Most of the hoses and harness are hooked up but ive got one thing im confused about.

One of my turbo lines has a hose end to it. I have no idea where it goes?? I would appreciate ur help!

[hellfire]

Coolant feed. Behind the block.

Tyler

[Steven2]

Thanks again tyler.

Ok one more thing haha. The hose that runs accross the back of the motor. It comes around and looks like it would go somewhere around the surge tank...but i dont see anything?

[hellfire]

Can't say I know what you are talking about.

Tyler

[Steven2]

Its coming from the big circular thing next to the master cylinder

[hellfire]

Brake booster? That goes into the back of the manifold with a one way valve inbetween.

Tyler

[Steven2]

i cant find it...

would anyone have a picture or somethin?

[J Squared]

Its right in the back of the manifold, should be the only vacuum port that big back there IIRC.

Heres a pic from a S14 SR

http://mestiso.net/photogallery/240/CIMG2350.jpg

[Steven2]

u guys are awesome thanks for the help


Now my battery is giving me trouble. I put the negative on, and when i then put the positive on, it sparks and the wires start smoking at the battery terminal and in the engine bay.

The person who had this car b4 me rerouted the battery to the trunk, and im not really familiar with the setup and im confused. Help again ?

[babowc]

Check your battery wires first.
Sounds like a short or exposed wires?

[Casey]

sounds like a serious short.

pull the wires out from the battery relocation.

more than likely you could have cut something jiggling wires around or the relocation kit was like 8 gauge or 4 gauge wire. *too small imo* and it melted somewhere.

2 gauge is what you need.

just put the battery back in the engine bay if you have room.
if not, homedepot some 2 gauge wire.

but i honestly think its a short somewhere.

the relocation kit could be fine. check engine bay. check alternator wires ect ect

[hellfire]

Or you are putting them on backwards.

Tyler

[Steven2]

thanks for the info viperbite...no room in under the hood and i already have 2 gauge wire.

My problem was that i didnt really know what i was doing with wiring...so ive been learnin and watching this swap video.

There are 2 things that have me stumped.

1. I cant seem to find the ground that is supposed to go on the alternator. Is the lower harness ground that goes to the strut tower sufficient?

2. One of the 2 switches in between the 3rd and 4th pipes on the intake manifold has a wire that is going nowhere. The end looks like a ground but its big and its attached to another switch. Anyone know where it goes?

http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/8782/s7305915io3.jpg
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/9354/s7305914av2.jpg

This is what the end to that switch looks like

[Zippy69]

That is your knock sensor. It hooks to the engine block under the intake about middle ways.
Your ground should be near the battery. No need to run a long ground back up to the engine bay.
Use an OHM meter to determine if you are shorted or not and to determine which wire is positive and which is negative.