Q45 Brake Swap (S14)

[red24d]

I posted this on NICO too, thought it would be useful for any 240 owner who has never seen this since most posts are just words without pics.

Okay, so you've been reading here and there that these brakes are a good alternative to stock and cheap compared to Z32 brakes. Since I have seen plenty of ideas and some photos around the web and never really any step by step procedure, I figured even the typical n00b would appreciate a somewhat step by step posting. So, what I have here are a few pics of what needs to be done to get these bad boys to sit in there just right. My platform is a '96 SE model, so I am not including any five lug swap or re-drilling in these steps.

1. First, remove your wheel(s) from the front.
2. Using a 12mm Socket or wrench, remove the bolt with the brake line from the back of the caliper, draining it into a drain pan of some sort.
3. Using a 14mm (I believe it is anyway) remove the caliper bolts from the stock calipers.
4. Using a 18mm (might be 19mm) remove the caliper brackets.
5. Remove the stock rotor.
6. Now, depending on the method you prefer, remove the dust shield (I chose using a air cutting wheel, then used a grinder to smooth out lose ends. If you decide to take the route I did, use a hammer (or rubber mallet like I did) and beat the shield back a bit so as to ensure the dust shield doesn't rub the back of your new thicker rotors.
7. Okay, I will show the picture of this when photobucket stops being stupid, but the bolt for the q45 bracket is a bit longer then the 240sx bolt. And if you are doing this swap you will see that the bracket for the stock caliper is deeper at the bolting point than the Q45 bracket (sorry, no photo of that). I think it's odd how that works out, but my solution was to use the stock 240sx bracket bolts. Using the washers from both bolts, thread it down. Works perfectly.
8. Install your brake pad retaining clips (I think that's what they are called) at the top and bottom and then slide your pads in.
9. Next push the caliper piston down (if it is a used caliper not ready for install) using a "C" clamp and an old brake pad or small piece of wood.
10. Now, slide the caliper on and then put the bolts through and tighten them down using a 17mm (pretty sure on this one).
11. Bleed your brakes, starting from the caliper furthest from the brake master cylinder working your way to the closest one.
12. Put your wheels back on.
13. Brag to all your friends that you are now mechanically inclined.

Size Matters:

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m184/mcampbell26/Car/S14027.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m184/mcampbell26/Car/S14028.jpg

Q45 calipers are still in the bracket here:

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m184/mcampbell26/Car/S14025.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m184/mcampbell26/Car/S14026.jpg

Removing the old bracket:

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m184/mcampbell26/Car/S14024.jpg

Cutting the dust shield, ALWAYS wear eye protection. I was also getting flakes thrown in my face so I improvised using my shirt and later a wet rag. You can also see that I needed to remove a good portion of
the dust shield where the bracket bolts up.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m184/mcampbell26/Car/S14034.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m184/mcampbell26/Car/S14045.jpg

Finished product:
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m184/mcampbell26/Car/S14042.jpg
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m184/mcampbell26/Car/S14041.jpg

[Neejay]

Nice. I would add in there as a high recommendation for people to buy the caliper rebuild kit + slide pin rubber kit + be sure to grease the sliding pins (assuming the calipers are used/junk yard)

My q45 rotor was getting warped, then I discovered that the grease was gone in the lower pin, basically rusted in there.

[red24d]

Good point, I didn't even think to add that. But yeah, since the pins come right out for mounting it's possible for water and stuff to get in there causing some oxidation. Thanks for adding that thought.

[juanito]

so did u use the s14 bracket or the Q45 one?
oh, and what if u have 4 lug? do i just get the rotors re-drilled at a machine shop or something?

[red24d]

I used the Q45 bracket, I didn't check to see if the stock one would fit but my best guess is it wouldn't with the Q45 calipers. 4 lug would need re-drilling, you got that there. I don't know how much it would cost or where the best place to do it is though since I never did this swap with any of my four lug cars.

[Black R]

Gj!

I did this recently while converting to 5lug also.

I second the using of the s-chassis mounting bolts, bc the q45 ones will start touching the back of the rotor once torqued down.

Next up is evo brembo's!

[red24d]

Nice, that's some big money for those!

[MrVito]

As far as bleeding goes, isn't the drivers side rear caliper technically the furthest from the BMC, since the lines that go to the rear cross the firewall and travel down the passenger side of the vehicle before splitting at the rear?

[red24d]

You know, you're not the first one to say that. I think I've read that somewhere else as well. I'm gonna have to follow the lines to see about that. You may in fact be very right and I might have over looked that since I was just going off location of the BMC.

[MrVito]

I actually noticed it when I did Q45 brakes on my first s14 several years ago. I'm going to be pulling Z32 front and rear brakes off of the donor car and putting them on the new project soon, so when one of them are up in the air I'll confirm.