View Full Version : Caliper thread for bleed screw is stripped, now what?
afwfjustin
08-14-2009, 10:11 PM
I got my cross-drilled and slotted rotors turned yesterday, installed my Hawk HPS pads, and was about to put in some ATE Super Blue.
While bleeding my brakes, I managed to completely strip the passenger side bleeder screw into a smooth circle and didn't get to bleed that side.
Then I got the bleed screw out on the driver's side, bled the fluid, and then could not tighten it. It also stripped while trying to tighten it, and then I tried to use a vice grip to tighten it back. It kept turning and turning, and I pulled it back out and noticed that the threads from the actual caliper were stripped off into the bleeder screw threads. I cannot drive my car :(
I have Z32 front brakes and used a snap-on 10mm wrench. I know I'm going to have to drill out the passenger side and use a new bleeder screw, but I guess I'll have to retap my driver's caliper? Anyone know of a larger screw to use?
Its a M10x1.0 I think, or something like that.
Pull up the Speedbleeders website, all Nissans are damned hear the same.
Are you sure you can tap it cause of the fitting inside?
sullen
08-14-2009, 10:19 PM
no sir. new calipers.... all bleeder screws are just about a 10 mm or a 3/8" screw. you won't find any larger...
afwfjustin
08-14-2009, 10:30 PM
Well I can get the passenger side out by drilling the bleeder screw. On the pass. side only the bleeder screw's hex pattern is completely stripped/rounded; I was never able to even get the thing off to bleed so the threads are fine..
The driver's side is not only stripped but stripped the inside of the caliper. There isn't a larger one I can use for the driver's side? Not even something American? I really don't want to have to buy another Z32 caliper that would suck ballsack.
I think some asshole used threadlock or something for them. There is NO reason for them to have been so hard to get off.
sullen
08-14-2009, 10:31 PM
i know it sucks. bleeder screws come in either 8mm 10mm or 3/8" for the most pary. you won't find one to fit in there.
afwfjustin
08-14-2009, 10:41 PM
Ugh. Ridiculous.
Chris
08-15-2009, 04:02 PM
Pull it off the car. Take it to a machine shop. They can fix it. Even if they have to weld up the hole and make a new one. But it may be cheaper to buy one.
J Squared
08-15-2009, 04:57 PM
Can you helicoil aluminum?
afwfjustin
08-17-2009, 05:26 AM
Pull it off the car. Take it to a machine shop. They can fix it. Even if they have to weld up the hole and make a new one. But it may be cheaper to buy one.
I was thinking about this. I can't seem to find one for less than 100 bucks. Someone could tig it shut for me. I can re-tap it on my own - I just need someone to weld it shut. I might call up a shop or two and see who could do that for me.
And yes, mine are the aluminum.
Elizabeth Reed
08-17-2009, 08:38 PM
I work at a machine shop, throwing it out there
Cool Cat Racing
08-18-2009, 01:20 AM
Got to Orielly's. Last time I bought an Aluminum 30mm Z32 is was like $65. If you weld the hole shut and then retap it you'd better hope you get the hole exactly where the old one was or it wont seat on the taper at the bottom. You're best bet is to just get a new one.
Hammerhead-i Eaglethrust
08-18-2009, 01:24 AM
Got to Orielly's. Last time I bought an Aluminum 30mm Z32 is was like $65. If you weld the hole shut and then retap it you'd better hope you get the hole exactly where the old one was or it wont seat on the taper at the bottom. You're best bet is to just get a new one.
x2 Trade in yours for cores. Brakes and suspension are the last place I'd want to have something rigged. Just my 2 cents.
white_s14
08-18-2009, 12:41 PM
the calipers are not that expensive at advanced new esp if you have ur core
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.1.12 Copyright © 2012 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.