DIY 5 Speed Swap.

[Trap Star]

For some reason I have wanted to do a writeup on something for a while now. Anyway since we are going to be swapping NinjaHobo's automatic transmission for a 5 speed one I thought I would do one on that. This is my first swap personally but I am getting some help from Broke240 who has done a few. Anyway, on to the write up.

Tools Needed:

Jack
Jack Stands
Engine Hoist
Ratchet
10mm Socket and wrench
12mm Socket and wrench
14mm Socket and wrench
17mm Socket
19mm Socket
27mm Socket
Impact gun
Breaker Bar (you will definitely want one)
Pliers (helps with clips)
Screw Driver (philips and flat head)


I decided to start out with the interior pieces because it was the morning and I didn't feel like any manual labor yet. So when you get into your 240 and look towards the dash you should see something like this.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0870.jpg

The easiest way I found to remove it was grab towards the top, right above the radio, and give it a little pull. Its just some clips that hold it on. Once you get that off and maneuver it around the top of the shifter, your dash should look like this.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0871.jpg

The next thing I decided to do was remove the entire center console piece. It gave me a little extra room to move around in there. To do this there are 4 screws holding it on. 2 towards the front, and 2 towards the back. The back 2 I had to lay the seats down pretty far to get to. As your pulling it out there are a couple of plugs you need to disconnect for the buttons on your console. They are pretty easy to do so I didn't get pictures. Once you get that piece out you will be left with this.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0873.jpg

The next thing you are going to want to do is take the 2 small screws out of the shifter itself. When you do this it becomes mobile which is important a little bit later on. Here's a picture of where the screws are.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0876.jpg

Once you get those out you can go ahead and remove the 4 screws that hold down the piece that tells you what gears and such you're in. Pictures of where you can find the screws. (I already took them out when I took the pictures)
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0878.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0879.jpg

Now you can start lifting the shifter and the gear indicator piece. If you haven't noticed yet its not quite going anywhere. There is a pair of wires you need to clip. Heres a picture of the wire after I cut it.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0880.jpg

Once you get those two pieces out you are left with this.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0881.jpg

Now you can start getting ready to take the engine out. The first thing I took off was the intake. I didn't put pictures of that because I think everyone can do that. If you can't though and want pictures, just post up and ill get some. Anyway, second thing I disconnected was the throttle cable and the cruise control cable. All you have to do to do this is use a 14mm open end wrench and loosen up the nuts on each wire. Then push the throttle down a bit to get some slack in the lines so you can detach them. Here's a picture of what you will have when they are disconnected but not yet out of the way.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0882.jpg

Ok. So I don't have very many pictures of us unplugging the wiring harness but its pretty straight forward, I trust that you can figure it out. Also Now would be a good time to go ahead and drain the fluids that need to come out. Don't worry about draining the oil. Just power steering and coolant for right now. A picture of some coolant in a pan. (We used catering pans that I found in the basement)
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0883.jpg

You will also need to disconnect this line. I don't completely remember what this is so if somebody does and they feel like contributing that would be awesome.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0884.jpg

Oh if you see this at any point during your swap. RUN!
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0885.jpg

I believe these were grounding points. Correct me if im wrong. Pretty easy to get off with a phillips head.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0888.jpg

Unplug your fuel injectors and you get this.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0887.jpg

Disconnect this (dunno the official name for it). It connects to your dizzy.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0889.jpg

Go ahead and cut these wires. They have something to do with the automatic tranny. You don't want them anymore.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0886.jpg

Because this was an s13 and we are pretty sure the A/C uses freon we decided to leave the lines connected and just remove the whole setup from the motor. Anyway here is where it bolts up. Use a 14mm on these bolts.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0891.jpg

In order to get the a/c unit off the motor you need to remove the belt. I present you with a picture of the tensioner. Don't remember what size bolt it is but just loosen it up and the belt will come off.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0892.jpg

Next we moved on to the driveshaft. Its a total of 4 bolts holding this bad boy in, if you don't count the brace that adds a bit of support that is. Anyway if I remember right they were all 14mm bolts. Also make sure before you pull the driveshaft out put a pan under where it connects to the tranny. Some fluid is definitely going to come out of there. Anyway a couple pictures of the bolts.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0893.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0894.jpg

Next up, disconnect the header from the exhaust or the block, whichever you choose. This can be a pain, you will definitely need an extension...or two.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0895.jpg

A necessary item whenever you work on anything that has to do with a car. Unless you are driving of course.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0896.jpg

Now we move on to removing the tranny brace. Bring out your breaker bar cause your going to need it.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u292/baconbitz99x/IMG_0899.jpg




Edit**Thats all for today's update. Im tired of typing and shit.

[Trap Star]

reserved

[Trap Star]

reserved 2

[Trap Star]

reserved 3

[v-empire]

thanks for the contribution.
no matter what.

+1 for you.

[240phane]

im planning on doing this so please keep posting

[suprabrit]

I'm surprised it took this long to get this writeup.

I've already been through it though. :toung:

[Trap Star]

Ill have more up tomorow. We ran into a few problems today which slowed us down.

[hellfire]

You do know you don't need to take out the motor right?

Tyler

[Decker]

reps for a write up. +10

[flip]

Awesome, I'm about to do this on my coupe myself so this will come in handy. There are other write ups but really no pictures on the other ones so thanks!!!

+10

I'll contribute after I do mine if I find any helpful tips.

One thing that would really help me is knowing the size of the hole saw I will need to drill for the master cyl. and pics of doing that. Anyone know?

[v-empire]

1 3/8th inch hole saw.

[omgtofu]

anyone else catch the pun, "manual" labor....ohhhhh hilarious.

[hellfire]

One thing that would really help me is knowing the size of the hole saw I will need to drill for the master cyl. and pics of doing that. Anyone know?

You will also need an angle drill, which you can get the adapter for a normal drill at home depot for about $50 bucks. You will hit the strut tower if you don't.

Either that, or if you just happen to have the entire dash of of the car, you can use a regular drill, as you can get a straight shot.

Also, there are markings on the inside of the firewall that tell exactly where to cut, you will see when you get it there.

Two bolt holes, and one large hole in the middle.

Tyler

[suprabrit]

You will also need an angle drill, which you can get the adapter for a normal drill at home depot for about $50 bucks. You will hit the strut tower if you don't.


I swear we used a reg. drill for this...

I have the hole saw in my tool box, but I don't remember what size it was...

Nevermind, already posted.

Can we get a write for a Getrag into a mkiv Supra please? haha jk...that's going to be a nightmare though...

[Decker]

I swear we used a reg. drill for this...

I have the hole saw in my tool box, but I don't remember what size it was...

Nevermind, already posted.

Can we get a write for a Getrag into a mkiv Supra please? haha jk...that's going to be a nightmare though...

I'd like a writeup for a GETRAG into a 240

[hellfire]

I swear we used a reg. drill for this...

I have the hole saw in my tool box, but I don't remember what size it was...

Nevermind, already posted.

Can we get a write for a Getrag into a mkiv Supra please? haha jk...that's going to be a nightmare though...


You can use a regular drill, with a regular drill bit. And drill about 15 holes around where it should be, and then knock it out with hammer. But if you do this, you will hate your life and it will be horrible. Spend the extra cash, and return the damn thing if you have to.

Tyler

[v-empire]

ouch......thats alot of mullah. well for me anyways.

[suprabrit]

I'd like a writeup for a GETRAG into a 240

Good luck with that one...:lmfao:

[hellfire]

Good luck with that one...:lmfao:

He already has it... :wave:

Tyler

[suprabrit]

In the 240!?!?! Where the hell have I been!?!

Decker, please do tell!

[v-empire]

lol...........

[suprabrit]

I'm just going to leave now...

[v-empire]

come back. we give hugs. even if you dont know us.

[hellfire]

I'm sure you do. Creepy guy.

Tyler

[v-empire]

thats me!!! :)

[Trap Star]

You do know you don't need to take out the motor right?

Tyler

We decided we would just go ahead and do it that way. None of us felt like trying to deal with dropping the auto out the bottom.

[hellfire]

Its easy. And since its the Auto, and you won't use it again, just push it and let it fall to the floor.

But either way, good luck with your swap!

Tyler

[Trap Star]

Its easy. And since its the Auto, and you won't use it again, just push it and let it fall to the floor.

But either way, good luck with your swap!

Tyler

Thanks. I may try it with the next one I do. It shouldn't crack concrete when it falls should it?

[hellfire]

Hah, no.

Tyler

[Hammerhead-i Eaglethrust]

I've only done one manual swap so far, and that involved taking the engine and tranny out as one unit (burned one from my S14) and dropping in another engine and tranny as a whole unit.

But I have done one clutch job, and I can tell you it's not hard at all to get the tranny out, just undo the tranny mount while supporting it with a jack, lower the jack and the motor/tranny will tilt back giving you access to all tranny bolts. Undo them and slide the tranny off. bada bing bada bang.

If you decide to take the engine out too, go for it, but take advantage while its out and at least do some heavy cleaning, and possibly change all belts, hoses, water pump, etc etc, whatever you come up with. If you've got the cash its an excellent time to upgrade motor mounts, obviously.

[Trap Star]

Sorry its taking so long guys. We've run into a few problems (rain included). Should be done soon. Ill upload some pictures maybe later tonight or tomorow morning.

[TurboNegro]

any updates

[FlyingStroke240]

hell fire.clear your pm on IA.

[Trap Star]

Bit of an update added guys. Sorry im one lazy mother fucker.

[Decker]

^ so ... quit doing my mom and finish this shit!

[Barnacles240]

id say u hae some major problems to take care of before u swap the tranny...like that built up oil on ur motor....thats gotta tell u something and what about ur frame being rusted out

[Trap Star]

id say u hae some major problems to take care of before u swap the tranny...like that built up oil on ur motor....thats gotta tell u something and what about ur frame being rusted out

We knew the motor was shit before we started. The tranny went first though. None of us knew about the condition of the frame, not even the owner, until we started to jack the car up. The frame bent as the car was lowered of the jacks. As far as I know the search for a new shell has begun but he needs the car until that time.

[hellfire]

Where did the frame bend? If you are talking about the frame rails that are square and run the length of the car underneath, then they always bend. Do not jack or use a jack stand there. They are hollow, and do not support the cars weight.

Tyler

[carlova78]

I put stands under my rails. does fine. I use it where thers 2 layers towards the end

[Trap Star]

Where did the frame bend? If you are talking about the frame rails that are square and run the length of the car underneath, then they always bend. Do not jack or use a jack stand there. They are hollow, and do not support the cars weight.

Tyler

Just saw this. It bent as we jacked it up because of how rusted through the frame rail is on the driver side.