View Full Version : cage rules
is300t
02-05-2009, 12:39 AM
I am getting a cage next week. I want to know if i can use cromoly tubing and what diameter and wall thinkness etc. it has to be. It has to be d1 spec. Also do I have to have a dash bar for the cage or can I keep the factory dash bar?
0displacement
02-05-2009, 01:08 AM
as far as i understand it. it needs to be a 6 pt cage weld in or bolt in with backing plates. needs to have door bars and a pillar. i think (from what i have read and pictures i have seen ) they prefer you to have a knee bar/header bar and a diagonal brace through the main hoop that ties into the harness bar.
i searched for the cage specifications and all i could come up with was 6 pt with door bars... and the stupid autopower cage was legal.. so it shouldnt take much
and 1.5 inch 095 chromoly is normally the standard tubing
MrsTurbo
02-05-2009, 02:00 AM
auto power is gay! custom cage ftw! isnt that right darrin???
0displacement
02-05-2009, 02:34 AM
shywea
C.Ward
02-05-2009, 02:40 AM
actually a auto power is a good cage. imo the best bolt in out there. you can do all local ,FDC D1GP. and... if you total your car your not out of a cage.
240JESSx
02-05-2009, 02:43 AM
FDC, D1, and FD all have rulebooks brandon. quit trying to brag to people about your cage ;)
is300t
02-05-2009, 02:59 AM
well thank you jess for that information! cause i didnt know that but i guess i will show off my cage while im at it! haha
SB-Autoworks
02-05-2009, 10:46 AM
The whole rule book and specs for building the cage can be found on formula d's website, there's a link on the bottom. I would fine it for you but I'm on the way out the day for work.
Anyway to cut out some of that, bolt in cages are NOT allowed for formula D, don't know about d1 and any others.... but the spec books for them aren't too difficult to find.
Gvilleracer
02-05-2009, 10:12 PM
http://www.ter-tech.com/2009Ter-Tech%20FPDS%20rules®ulations.pdf
These will take care of you for FDC and D1.
Don't do cromoly man. It's a very brittle metal and it gets weaker over time.
In 3 years your cromoly will start cracking at the joints. Ask any real road racer or IMSA/ GT/ SCCA frame/cage builder they know.
Just save some money and go with mild steel; besides, a little extra weight wont hurt you! haha
Cameron.
02-05-2009, 10:15 PM
only advantage of chromoly is its lighter.. just do DOM mild steel 1.75x.120 wall. youll be fine.
and dont pay extra for that tig bullshit.. just get it migged up... nascar cages are migged...
0displacement
02-05-2009, 11:39 PM
some people care how well their cages look and having it tig welded just looks baller lol.
Cameron.
02-05-2009, 11:46 PM
paying more just for looks? and having the same strength?
Elizabeth Reed
02-05-2009, 11:55 PM
since tig does cool slower it will be stronger you also get more penetration into the metals with tig. if i do eventually geta cage i will tig it myself since shop rates are pretty high.
Slambarsoldier
02-06-2009, 12:20 AM
Ask any road racer, any real road racer, it doesnt matter if you win by an inch, or a mile....winnings winning.
took the words right outta my mouth.
floridaracing
02-06-2009, 12:34 AM
chromemoly requires a special process to do right anyway a pre-heat and a post heat
2isbetterthan4
02-06-2009, 01:12 AM
I am guessing you are getting in on that S&W buyin. Stay with Mild steel, chromoly is just not worth the weight difference unless its a Formula or GT cage or higher(where weight is important) Also TIGing a cage is much better/safer than MIG. Alot harder but worth it when it comes to safety.
Nick Jeezy
02-06-2009, 02:08 AM
his cage will be custom. not s&w
Flatline Slider
02-06-2009, 10:23 PM
if you are building a drift cage go to d1's web site and look up the rule book also from what i know you need an 8pt cage mild steel is acceptable depending on thickness also driver door must have x brake or something of the sort
and if you buy a cage for looks then its known you have no idea how to use spray paint so simple to cover up mistakes
The Marty
02-06-2009, 10:25 PM
if you are building a drift cage go to d1's web site and look up the rule book also from what i know you need an 8pt cage mild steel is acceptable depending on thickness also driver door must have x brake or something of the sort
and if you buy a cage for looks then its known you have no idea how to use spray paint so simple to cover up mistakes
Holy crap there's another thread on that :roll:
Gvilleracer
02-07-2009, 05:45 AM
About that S&W group buy.
Are their cages tight to the car.
I was going custom; but, they are cheap; real cheap.
I just don't want any gaps. I need a lot of room for my big head!
Anybody got any experiance with them?
icantdrift
02-07-2009, 11:27 PM
About that S&W group buy.
Are their cages tight to the car.
I was going custom; but, they are cheap; real cheap.
I just don't want any gaps. I need a lot of room for my big head!
Anybody got any experiance with them?
you have to fit/notch everything yourself, so it'll fit as tight as you can make it.
AFSil80
02-08-2009, 03:27 AM
About that S&W group buy.
Are their cages tight to the car.
I was going custom; but, they are cheap; real cheap.
I just don't want any gaps. I need a lot of room for my big head!
Anybody got any experiance with them?
Quality stuff. Each piece has enough excess on it to where it should prevent any issues as far as cage construction (surrounding the driver) is concered. Granted, that's if it's being done by a professional, and not some guy that just happens to have a TIG welder and has never done such a thing.
floridaracing
02-09-2009, 07:12 PM
must be 240 cages or something, cause my basic 8 pt kit for my mustang came all notched and cut. The only bars I had to cut were the door bars and the other 2 down bars since they can be put into a number of places
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/17/l_ed6a2cc413ea0d08610b5f05b28871df.jpg
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/66/l_9adc36d1a1576b0da4a5a37b56217975.jpg
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